Dinner Starts HereWeeknight cooking that survives a real week

Kitchen Kit

Pans get replaced because of washing up, not cooking

Very few pans wear out from being cooked in. They are ruined by overheating, by scouring and by being cleaned in ways the surface was never designed for.

A woman organizing spoons in a kitchen drawer beside a stainless steel kettle.
Photograph by Melike B via Pexels
Editorial note. Independent reporting and analysis. Nothing here is sponsored or paid for. How we work.

This is less a set of instructions about pan maintenance than an argument, and it is worth saying so at the start.

The argument in brief

  • Non-stick coatings degrade with high heat and with abrasion.
  • Thermal shock warps a pan base, and a warped base cooks unevenly.
  • Different pan surfaces need genuinely different cleaning methods.

Heat is the first killer

Non-stick coatings have a stated temperature limit, and empty pans on high heat exceed it quickly. An empty pan has nothing to absorb the energy, so it climbs far faster than a pan with food in it. Once the coating has been damaged by heat it does not recover, and the pan gradually stops releasing food.

This is the most common way a good non-stick pan is ruined, and it usually happens during preheating. The manufacturer instructions state the limit, and following them is the single most effective way to extend the life of the pan.

Thermal shock warps the base

Plunging a hot pan into cold water cools the base far faster than the sides, and the metal moves in response. A warped base no longer sits flat, which produces uneven heating and poor contact on flat hobs. The effect is cumulative and irreversible, and it is caused entirely by how the pan is handled after cooking.

Letting a pan cool for a few minutes before washing avoids the problem completely at no cost. Thin pans warp more readily than heavy ones, which is part of what the extra weight is buying.

Abrasion and what it does

Scouring pads and harsh powders remove the surface a little at a time, whichever material the pan is made from. On non-stick this destroys the coating directly, and on stainless it leaves scratches that food catches in. Soaking is almost always more effective than scrubbing and requires no effort at all.

For stuck food, adding water and warming the pan gently lifts most of it without any abrasion. Deglazing while the pan is still hot removes browned residue immediately and gives you a sauce in the process.

Different surfaces, different rules

Cast iron and carbon steel rely on a layer built up through use, and harsh detergent and prolonged soaking work against it. Stainless steel tolerates almost anything, including dishwashers and strong cleaning, which is a large part of its appeal. Non-stick should generally be washed by hand, since dishwasher detergents are abrasive and the heat is high.

Enamelled surfaces chip if knocked and stain over time, and the manufacturer usually specifies what may be used on them.

Reading the instructions once for each pan you own takes a few minutes and prevents most of the damage that occurs.

Storage causes damage too

Pans stacked directly inside one another grind their surfaces together every time they are moved. A cloth, a paper sheet or a purpose-made protector between them prevents this entirely.

Hanging pans avoids the problem but requires wall space and secure fixings. Lids stored on pans trap moisture, which matters for cast iron and carbon steel in particular. A cupboard where pans must be wrestled out is a cupboard where they get knocked and chipped.

Adjust seasoning at the end rather than trusting a quantity written by a stranger.

Knowing when to replace

A non-stick pan that no longer releases food has reached the end of its useful life, and there is no way to restore the coating. A pan with a badly warped base will never cook evenly again and is worth replacing rather than persevering with. A loose handle is often repairable and is worth checking before discarding an otherwise sound pan.

At the stove, cast iron and stainless steel can usually be restored rather than replaced, which is a genuine argument for owning them. Treating a good pan properly from the start is considerably cheaper than replacing an adequate one every few years.

The takeaway

Never heat a coated pan empty, let it cool before it meets water, soak instead of scouring, and read the instructions once.

Taste it before it leaves the pan. That is most of cooking.

Questions readers ask

Can I put my non-stick pan in the dishwasher?

Check the manufacturer instructions, but generally it is better not to. Dishwasher detergents are abrasive and the cycle runs hot, and both shorten the life of the coating.

Why has my pan stopped sitting flat?

Thermal shock, usually from washing it while it was still hot. The base cooled faster than the sides and the metal moved. Let pans cool before washing them.

Kitchen Kitpanskitcleaningequipment
Piotr Wesely
Technique writer, Dinner Starts Here

Piotr writes about heat, timing and the physics of a good sear.

Also by Piotr Wesely